Since our last update we have stayed in the following Costa Rican cities:

Alajuela
San Jose
San Pedro
Liberia
Playa del Coco
Playa Brasilito
Playa Real
Tamarindo
San Juanillo
Playa Nosara
Playa Samara
San Francisco de Coyote
Nicoya
Playa Samara
Playa Nosara
San Pedro

Nicoya Peninsula on the Pacific Coast

As we lounged with cool beverages while sitting in a bubbling spa surrounded by lush tropical vegetation, we heard a load roar directly above us. Looking up we spotted a group of 10 howler monkeys, including two mothers with babies on their backs, swinging through the tree tops in search of tender vines for an afternoon snack. They paused long enough to hang upside down by their tails, scratch themselves, and peer at us as intently as we were staring at them.

This happened midway through our 3 week bike tour down the Nicoya Peninsula, a trip on bumpy, potholed, muddy, dirt roads. As we cycled along these isolated one lane "roads", we frequently startled iguanas dashing in front of us. There were also plenty of vultures to take care of the iguanas that didn't quite make it across the road. As we bumped along, we were serenaded by the amazing screeches of the tropical birds and howler monkeys hiding in the trees.

Our progress was often interrupted as we stopped to carry our bikes and gear across murky brown rivers. Once we saw a sign that said "Cuidado Con Crocodiles". Later we found out that crocodiles live in many of the rivers that we crossed, but luckily we weren't chosen for the day's lunch.

One day we misjudged how long it would take to reach the next town, and found ourselves walking the bikes in the pitch dark. We finally stumbled into a tiny village where we ended up sleeping in a storage shed with chicken wire walls in the back of a cantina. We actually slept pretty well between midnight when the cantina closed and 2:30AM when the roosters started up. But we weren't complaining - it sure beat the alternatives.

Although the Pacific coast waters don't have the visibility or abundance of coral found in Thailand, we had a great time snorkeling on a boat trip out of Playa del Coco and on the north end of the beach at Playa Conchal. We saw a wide variety of tropical fish including brilliant turquoise parrot fish and large schools of black, orange, and white striped angel fish. While snorkeling off of the boat, our guide pointed out several large Moray eels, and grabbed an octopus, sea cucumbers, and a puffer fish for us to hold. It was amusing to watch this balloon shaped fish swim away from us as it deflated back to normal size.

The highlight of the trip had to be seeing the migration of the Olive Ridley turtles to lay their eggs at Playa Ostional. The turtles arrive 8 times per year approximately one week following the full moon between the months of July and February. We were lucky to be there during one of the peak months; August and September.

Arriving at 4:00 AM, we could barely make out what appeared to be large boulders scattered across the beach. As the sun came up, we found ourselves in the midst of over 1000 turtles weighing 80-100 pounds each. They deposit an average of 120 eggs in holes dug with their rear legs 18 inches deep in the sand. We were able to freely wander among the turtles, and could watch them dropping their eggs, which looked just like ping pong balls. The earth actually shook as they lifted their bodies up and packed the sand over the top of eggs to protect them. The turtles are so exhausted from the process, they have to stop every 3-4 steps to rest as they drag themselves back down to the ocean. Looking out across the water, we could see hundreds of turtle heads bobbing in the surf. Truly a once in a lifetime experience.

San Jose

Before our trip to the coast we found an apartment just east of San Jose (the capital) in the city in San Pedro which is the home of the University of Costa Rica. We stayed for 5 weeks while Maria studied Spanish at the Instituto Britanico and Jim worked on programming his computer and cooking with the local ingredients. After hearing how safe Costa Rica is, we were surprised to find the high fences, window bars, and often times, barbed wire around every house. This is in addition to the 24 hour private security guards that patrol every middle and upper class neighborhood. We were repeatedly warned by the locals not to walk around at night or carry a wallet or valuables. However, we walked around day and night and never felt in any more danger than we do in most U.S. cities.

This is the only place that we have visited where there are no specific addresses and no mail delivery. People have post boxes and visit the post office a few times a week to pick up mail. Directions are given using landmarks such as 200 meters south and 75 meters east of the Kentucky Fried Chicken (which KFC???) - or it's across the street from the third tree south of where the dog peed. Needless to say, finding things is always an adventure.

Our apartment is owned by Jim and Angie Theologos who moved here 30 years ago from New York. Jim makes his living as an artist and art teacher and Angie designs clothing and jewelry. They were great resources for us and did everything that they could to make our stay enjoyable, including introducing us to some of the more interesting members of the ex-pat community. Jim is on the 4th of July committee, and we volunteered at the annual picnic held at the national brewery, running the balloon toss for the 5,000 attendees. Try hot dogs, beer and cotton candy at 8:00AM!

Volcan Arenal

We signed up for a day trip to Volcan Arenal with the local San Jose bike club run by Ciclos Quiros. Joining 75 other riders at 4:00 AM for the 3 ½ hour bus trip to the start of the ride, we stopped for "gallo pinto con huevos", the typical breakfast of rice and black beans with eggs. While pedaling the 80 km around the lake, we saw trails of leaf cutter ants hauling away the local foliage. We ended the ride by soaking in hot springs at the base of the country's only active volcano. The local riders welcomed us gringos and made sure that we were charged the "Tico" price at the resort. They also gave us numerous recommendations on places to tour throughout the country. Ciclo Quiros runs very inexpensive bike tours about every other weekend leaving from San Jose.

Next week we fly to Guatemala and El Salvador. Hasta luego.