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Since our last update we have stayed in:
Chiang Dao, Thailand
Chiang Mai, Thailand
Chiang Rai, Thailand
Chiang Saen, Thailand
Huay Xian, Laos
Pakbeng, Laos
Luang Prabang, Laos
Vang Vieng, Laos
Vientiane, Laos
Nong Khai, Thailand
Bangkok, Thailand
Pak Meng, Thailand
Ko Lanta, Thailand
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Northern Thailand
A few days after our friends Anne and Meagan left for home, we cycled
north and reached our destination, the Chiang Dao River Hill Resort,
101 km north of Chiang Mai. Set in the deep Thai jungle, we decided
to stay for an extra day. The resort accommodates over 150 people,
but there was only one other couple roaming the beautiful grounds.
During the early evening, the sounds of the crickets and other insects
was almost deafening. The only hitch was that Jim's derailer broke
and we were forced to return to Chiang Mai for repairs. Luckily,
we found the only repair shop in Thailand that had the tool required
to straighten his frame along with replacing the derailler. The
next day we were off again for the north and the famed "Golden Triangle"
where the borders of Laos, Thailand, and Myanmar (Burma) meet. After
taking the requisit pictures, we pedaled south along the Mekong
River, meandering through villages of thatched roof houses on stilts
without electricity or running water. We finally reached the town
of Chiang Kong, where we crossed over the river to Laos.
Laos
We began with a 2 day trip on a "slow boat" down the Mekong River
from Huay Xian to Luang Prabang. The boat was 6-7 ft. wide with
a 6 inch wooden bench running along each side. Thirty two of us
sat shoulder to shoulder without enough room to extend our legs
for 6 hours the first day and 8 hours the second. Initially, we
pushed off and floated out of control down the river while the crew
worked at starting the engine. Twenty minutes later it sputtered
to life, and we were off. Since there are no roads, accommodations,
or amenities except for the small village where we spent the night,
we stocked up on food and water. The bathroom facilities were "off
the back" which was reached by crawling over the engine and past
the woman whose job was to continually pour water over the engine
to keep it from overheating.
We spent the night in Pakbeng, a tiny village that exists to accommodate
the overnight boat traffic. Our rattan room was barely big enough
for the double bed and mosquito net. The toilet was down the stairs,
across the street, and behind a building. But for $2.50/night, who's
complaining? (Maria, loudly) We passed on an 8 year old boy's offer
of opium or ganja.
It was unfortunate that the boat was so uncomfortable, because the
scenery as we wound down the Mekong River was idyllic, with steep
lush green jungle on each side, an occasional water buffalo wading
in the water, lone fishermen on the banks, and screaming, naked
children going for their afternoon swim/bath. The long ride also
gave us plenty of time to meet our fellow travelers who we continued
to run into as we travelled through Laos on our 15 day visa.
When we finally pulled up to shore in Luang Prabang, it felt like
an oasis. This is another World Heritage Site with over 30 historical
Buddhist Wats within wandering distance of the center. Due to its
popularity with travelers, there are a number of good French and
Lao restaurants and plenty of guest houses. We were happy to have
our bikes so that we could explore the surrounding countryside.
One day we traveled to Hmong weaving villages where we watched women
sewing intricate embroidery. On another day, we cycled out a dirt
road for 20 miles to the Kuang Si Waterfall. We left the "big city"
and quickly entered the rural countryside where unkept barefoot
kids roaming the paths along with the unattended chickens, turkeys,
and water buffaloes. In contrast, we passed three large schools
where the students wore uniforms; the girls in clean, white long-sleeved
blouses and navy blue embroidered skirts and the boys with white
shirts, blue slacks, and matching baseball hats.
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When we finally reached the waterfall, we thought we had found
paradise; wide stretches of water tumbling over limestone rock formations
into a series of four turquoise pools. We spent the morning swimming
in the pools before beginning the hot, dusty ride back to town.
Vang Vieng
After a week in Luang Prabang, we boarded a bus for the mountainous
250 km, 6 hour trip south to Vang Vieng. Since guest houses are
still few and far between and we don't have our camping gear, we
had to take busses rather than travel by bike. Our three year old
guidebook only listed a few restaurants and guest houses in town.
When we arrived, we found that much had changed, with dozens of
places to stay and eat.
Our bungalow sat on the small river that runs right through town,
and we watched glorious fire red sunsets thanks to the smoky air
from the slash and burn farming (even pollution has its plusses).
We spent an afternoon floating down the river in inner-tubes, where
we watched people bathing,
washing clothes and motor bikes, and driving across the shallow
river bed to reach villages on the other side.
Like Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng was a town where days can turn into
weeks. After three days we reluctantly said good bye to Vang Vieng,
and shared a converted pick-up truck with Bill and Chris from Cazadero,
CA. to Vientiane, the capital.
Vientiane
This "city" is not very charming at first glance, with its dusty
potholed streets, and many uninspiring buildings. But scattered
throughout the city are a number of colonial French houses just
waiting to be restored, a version of the Arc de Triumph and the
best morning market that we have encountered. That along with a
number of good restaurants made for a enjoyable three day stay.
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On the way to Vientaine, we stopped for lunch in a small village,
and wandered into the open air market to find a noodle shop. As
we were eating lunch, Jim was surprised when a full pitcher of ice
water was poured over his head and down his back. He was then coated
in baby powder, and sat there looking stunned as Maria received
the same treatment. The other Lao patrons were laughing hysterically
until they also were drenched and coated, and we knew that the famed
Songkran Festival (New Year's) was about to begin.
Songkran Festival
On April 13th, New Year's Day, (after receiving our Thai visas in
only one day!), we left Laos and crossed the border back into Thailand
for the four day festivities, where the sole purpose seems to be
to keep yourself and everyone around you completely drenched from
morning to night. The streets were bumper to bumper with families
piled into the back of pick up trucks with 55 gallon drums of water
and buckets and water pistols. They doused people on the side of
the road and other cars while those in the streets retaliated. We
quickly found that it was impossible to stay dry even for a minute,
so we donned wet clothes in the morning, and stayed soaked until
night. Even the police in front of the main station were drinking,
dancing in the street, and joining in the dousings.
One day we visited the famous Buddha park, with hundreds of huge
cement statues of Buddhist and Hindu deities. In the center of the
park, we became sperm, entered through a large vagina into the wheel
of life, and followed it clock-wise through the depictions of the
different life stages ending with the Buddha leading us out of the
circle into Nirvana.
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Favorite Foods
The Thai and Lao foods have been absolutely delicious. The following
are our top ten favorites
- Thai cashew nut salad - Cashews fried in butter, covered with
green onions, red onions, fresh hot chilis, and lime juice.
- Luang Prabang salad - fresh watercress and other local greens,
chopped peanuts, and tomatoes in a sweet vinegrette.
- Green curry coconut chicken soup over rice
- Mangos and sticky rice - covered with coconut cream
- Tender squid grilled with garlic and pepper
- Green papaya salad - shredded papaya topped with chopped peanuts,
lime juice, sugar, and chilis.
- Fresh grilled barracuda
- Giant tiger prawns - covered with garlic and chilis
- Thai iced coffee - with sweet condensed milk
- Glass noodle salad with ground pork, onions, sprouts, mushrooms,
and chilis.
Thailand Beaches
After the festival, we took two overnight trains, and finally made
it to Southern Thailand for our "month of beaches". We are currently
in Phuket, the biggest of the Thai resort areas. Details in our
next update.
Till then, Lar Gorn
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